Restricted Access: Tsukiji

Our annual trip always starts at Tsukiji Fish Market. We venture out about 5 AM so that we can view the tuna at the fish market. Tsukiji is divided into three sections. The inner market is fish auction. The middle market are the wholesalers catering to restaurant owners. The outer market is retail featuring not only fresh fish but also ready to eat food.

The rules have changed since the last time we visited in 2007. During this past New Years, the auction was closed to all visitors citing bad behavior by visitors. Apparently, foreign visitors were touching the fish. If I paid $10,000 for a fish, I would be mad if someone touched my fish.

Fortunately, the Tokyo government realized the importance of Tsukiji to tourism in Tokyo. The auction was re-opened to visitors. Albeit, there is now a small viewing area and flash photography is now banned.

The rules are here.
http://www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/youkoso/24hour_e/24hours.htm



Fortunately, we were able view the auction from the viewing area. It is a narrow row between two auction areas. You are elbow to elbow with other tourist, jockeying for the perfect picture. It is not a very pleasant place to be. In fact some people are just plain rude.



It is worth it to see the tuna.

Happiness is Toro for Breakfast

Happiness is having this Nakaochi Toro Donburi for breakfast. I stumbled upon this nondescript restaurant along one of the main streets (undisclosed on purpose) that border Tsukiji Shijou. There was a yatai that had about four seats outside. The staff lured us into this alley. Were we surprised that on the other end of the alley there was a bigger dining establishment that specialized in kaisen (seafood donburi). The area was bordered by counters on both sides with about 10 seats each. There was an island in the middle where the ladies made the donburis. The island seated about 20 people. This is truly a hole in the wall.

I am so fortunate to be able to read Japanese. I found out that there was a limit to 15 servings of the Nakaochi Otoro Donburi. This is made from the scrapings near the Otoro. It is the leftover after the sashimi cuts are made. Still Otoro. For abour 1500 yen, it was a great deal. The bits of toro seemed to melt into the sushi rice. Served naked the toro was silky smooth without being too fishy. Yes, there is a 15 serving limit since it is fresh. The donburi was complemented with Japanese Negi with complemented the shoyu and toro.



In the picture you are looking at servings #14 and #15.

The second day of our trips to Japan is always the most challenging as we battle jet lag. This is the longest day as most of us usually wake up around 3AM (8AM HST). It's a battle to stay up until 10PM or later so that we have normal sleep patterns for the rest of the trip.



There is no better day to go to the World's largest fish market, Tsukiji. Tsukiji is indeed Japan's pantry. You can find any species of fish from around the world at Tsukiji.



Tsukiji is broken up into sections. The inner market is home to the auction. As you move outward, there are wholesalers. On the outside, there are retailers.



My breakfast was this Otoro Donburi. Chunks of Otoro scrapings on a bed of sushi rice, with japanese scallions. The bowl included a crab claw. The total cost......1400 yen. What a deal. The quality of fish used by the restaurants in Tsukiji. Kurt, our resident fish expert concurred that the fish was fresh and of high quality. The otoro melted in our mouth.