Transportation

Getting around in Japan can be challenging for the first time visitor. The transportation system in Tokyo gives you many options to get from point A to point B, too many options. The rail maps look like a series of tangled strings that lead to no where.

However, once you get acclimated to the transportation system, you will find it to be ultra efficient and convenient. Determining what mode of transportation, train, bus or subway is often determined by cost and convenience. Often the choice of getting from point A to point B is a choice between the JR local service, private rail service or subway. Even more intriguing is that stations are often situated a matter of blocks from each other and are accessed by different carriers. Often a subway station may be situated across the street from each other or here may be two competing rail lines on opposite sides of a block.

The best mode of transportation is often not a straight line.

Refer to the following transportation map and you will see what I mean.
http://www.tcvb.or.jp/en/index_en.htm

Luckily there are transportation web site that help you get from point a to where you need to be.
http://www.jorudan.co.jp/english/norikae/e-norikeyin.html

Just input in where you are and where you need to be. And you will get the train schedule and fare with transfer points. Pretty handy.

Sake

Drinking Jizake is something I look forward to in my travels to Japan.
Jizake 地酒　means local sake. What does this mean. Well, it is akin to microbrews in the US. The sake is distributed on a limited basis and is often only found on a seasonal basis. The limited distribution makes it more like a fine wine. Every season brings a different trait to the same sake.

Our favorite spot to taste and purchase sake is the Meishu Center in Hamamatsucho.
Why do we like to frequent this shop.

Well, first and foremost is the friendly staff. This trip was the second visit
for us to the Meishu Center. It was nice to be greeted with a friendly smile and gracious irrashaimase. I was really tickled that the staff remembered us from last
year.

Secondly, the selection is just awesome. Their selection may not be the most extensive, however I was not able to find one sake sold there that could be found on the shelves here in Hawaii.

The staff is attentive and knowledgable. Each of us had different traits that we enjoyed in sake. Malcolm prefers a more fruity flavor to his sake. I prefer dry more subtle flavor. Kurt prefers nigori sake. Well you get the picture. The staff was able to make recommendations that suited our palates perfectly.

I bought a bottle of sake there. Unfortunately, my schedule did not allow me a second trip there to purchase more sake. But, the rest of the gang went back on friday to purchase a few more bottles.

Meishu Center is on my itinerary on every trip to Japan.

As you can see from the picture, we made quite a splash there. In hindsight, we drank a lot of sake. Too much, nah.

Special Thanks to our friends at Meishu Center for their hospitality. We will definitely visit again.

Edo Tokyo Taemonoen 7

After a relaxing soak in the furo, there is only one thing on my mind......., An ice cold beer.

Exiting the sento, we turned down the street to the left. I found the noren of this izakaya.



As you enter through the noren, there is a counter with stools. The other side of the counter is cramped but laid out efficiently. There is an area to prepare food. A rice cooker can be seen in the back. The shelves are stocked with shochu and sake.

To the left of the shop is a small zashiki for parties.

Shochu, sake and beer...........

Trains in Japan

I found this internet train simulator.

You can be the train conductor on several lines in the Kanto area.

Check it out and try it out. It is more difficult then it looks.

http://www.realrailway.com/en/index.html

Edo Tokyo Tatemonoen 6

The end of the shitamachi street stands one of the social centers of the community. The Sento or public bath is the hub of a Japanese community. In the past, many homes were not equipped with baths or showers. For a nominal fee, people bathe in this establishment. With the advent of new phones equipped with showers or baths withing homes, the sento has become a rare sight.


As we pass through the noren, we pay the attendant sitting atop of the elevated bandai. Incidentally, the fee for use of the sento is set at 470 yen in Tokyo. The service is treated as a public utility and is regulated by the City. As such, the fee is nominal.




Men enter to the left. Women enter to the right. The large room is divided in two by a tall wall that separates the bathing areas.




The large baskets are for use by customers to store their clothes.




The front are a of the sento is equipped with shower/sink fixtures. Seats are often provided. One must wash and scrub down first before entering the bath at the end of the room. The baths are for soaking.

Common in sento is large mural. This one is of Mt. Fuji.

Tokyu Hands

You may have heard about a store named Tokyu Hands in Japan. Many articles have been written about this store. Mostly positive.

It is my favorite department store.

On this trip, I took my friends to the Shinjuku branch of this department store located in the Takashimaya Times Square. I kept telling my friends that I would take them to Tokyu Hands and how much I enjoyed going there. We walked through Shinjuku searching for Tokyu Hands. I had never been to Tokyu Hands in Shinjuku. I have always shopped at the Ikebukuro or Shibuya branches. Based on my experiences at the Shinjuku and Ikebukuro Branch, I was looking for a large stand alone building. As we searched around Shinjuku, we could not find it. Looking at the map, I thought that we were in right place...but the only buildings I could see were office buildings....., and the Takashimaya Times Square. Well it turns out the shop is located in the Takashimaya Times Square.

I kept this side trip to Tokyu Hands as one of the highlights of my trip but neglected to explain to my friends what it was. Since we were five guys travelling in Tokyo, I assured my friends that they will enjoy Tokyu Hands. Little did I realize that my friends expectations of what Tokyu Hands was quite different. Anyway, they kept asking me why I wanted to go there and how much do I spend. My reply was that every trip to Tokyu Hands was a special place that I go to in Japan and I often spend more than I expected....,Well, needless to say they were quite surprised when when we arrived......, at a Department Store.

We spent an hour at Tokyu Hands, it was six stories stocked with things of interest to us. It is definitely counter to the ritzy and often times expensive / luxurious department stores in Japan selling brand name goods.

We started at the top floor which was the stationery section. It was stocked with every type of pen,mechanical pencils, art supplies and office supplies that you could think of. Te selection was extensive. I bought several pens..., models that most likely will not be released in the US. I love Japanese pens.., even the cheap ones.

There is a floor for home improvement that includes tools, lighting and plumbing fixtures for the do-it-yourself scene.

As we went down the levels, we saw an extensive Halloween section with costumes, masks and party favors. The Japanese really take their Halloween or is Cosplay seriously. This is where we found one of our targeted gifts....the Hachimaki for our friend Steve's golf tournament on December 7.

There was a section on cel phone accessories, travel goods and a huge section of sporting goods. One floor had sporting goods and camping accessories galore. Rafts, bicycles, tents, packs and flashlights galore.

Clothing carried at the store is simple, sporty and comfortable. No suits or dresses. Casual wear for the weekend.

The travel accessories section was interesting. They had portable foot rests for the plane seats that fit over the tray in front of you. Travel slippers and pillows for comfort. Bags, passport/ticket holders and luggage galore.

Other than omiyage, my big purchase there was a belt pouch for my Sony camera. It fits perfectly and has all the pockets I need and in small compact design...I use it all the time now.

Of curiosity was the HPD Shirts for sale....? Did you really see that Rich?

This is definitely one place I shop at on every trip. But perhaps they should change the name. It is misleading to some until you get there.

Edo Tokyo Tatemonoen 5

This building is a shoyu merchant. The storefront is shown in this picture. This is what a shitamachi store front looked like in the early to mid 1900's.



Inside, there is a layout of the shop, Shoyu is their main product. However, the store also sells canned goods such as fruit and tuna or mackerel.

A curiosity are the bottles lined to the left of the store front. HMMMMM, they look familiar. It looks like something we enjoy drinking...................., If you look closely the bottles that line the wall are sake bottles.

The white pots to the left side store miso.




There is also a display of shoyu memorabilia including signs of shoyu manufacturers. Different types of bottles and casks that are used to store shoyu throughout history. These ranged for mason jars to plastic bottles.

Edo Tokyo Tatemonoen 4 (Toden)

This is a picture of a street car (toden) at the Edo Tokyo Museum. Street Cars were once a common form local transportation in Tokyo. The Tokyo Street Car system was very efficient prior to the development of the current subway, train and bus system.

This is a recreation of a street car headed for Shimbashi. A network of Street Cars running through Shimbashi, Daimon and the surrounding area was the main mode of transportation at the time.

Our group stays at the Shiba Park Hotel in the Shiba area. We did not notice any signs of Street Cars that ran through the area. No remnants of rail lines. However, we did notice that the main streets were a little wider. In fact, the street which Daimon is located at seems to be pretty wide for a 2 lane street in Tokyo. HMMM, I wonder if the line once ran through the gates of Daimon????

Currently, the only street car line that I know is the Toden Arakawa Line. This line runs from Waseda (University) Station to Minowa Bashi.

Edo Tokyo Tatemonoen 3

The highlight of the museum is the East Zone. The eastzone is a streetscape of the shitamachi area of Tokyo Shitamachi literally means downtown in Japanese.




The first building that greets us is the Koban or police box.
We got pretty nervous when we saw this building.......Luckily no officers were on duty.

This koban was located at Manseibashi in Kanda. It was located on the end of Manseibashi (bridge). This koban's design was common in the Meiji era. The office is in the front. There is a small living quarters in the back, maybe two or three tatami.

The koban is still used by the police in Japan to service neighborhoods. Koban in busy metropolitan areas often serve as a police substation with several officers on duty.

Neighborhood or rural koban often have one officer on duty and often their families live in the koban. The back of the koban is actually a house. The police officers are available 24 hours a day and 7 days a week in the community.


The next picture is of a mailbox.

Edo Tokyo Tatemonoen 2

The Edo Tokyo Tatemonoen is divided into three zones.

The entrance and visitor center is located in the central zone.

The central zone consists of historic buildings.

The first picture is the stately mansion of the family Takahashi Korekiyo. It was built in 1902 and was located in the Akasaka district of Tokyo. This is only part of his residence.

Takahashi Korekiyo is best know for being the Minister of Finance ahd the President of the Bank of Japan in the early 1900's. He appears on the 50 yen bank note which is not in circulation.

The mansion is stately to say the least. A large room on the first floor of the mansion was used for entertaining dignitaries. Mr. Takahashi entertained foreign guests overlooking the Japanese garden. The rooms are western in this section. The second floor houses a library.

The ancient building is actually a mausoleum in honor of a member of the Tokugawa family. It was built in the 1600's and was originally located in Shinjuku-ku.

Edo Tokyo Tatemonoen

We visited the Edo Tokyo Tatemonoen (Edo Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum).

The museum consists of preserved buildings that line streets in almost a town like setting. There are preserved buildings from various eras in the history of Edo and modern day Tokyo that range from an artisan's home/workshop to a modern home of a wealthy family.


This museum is operated by the Tokyo government.
Website is http://www.tatemonoen.jp/

If you are planning to visit the Ghibli Museum on your trip, it is definitely worthwhile to make some time to see the Edo-Tokyo Tatemonoen.

The museum can be accessed via the Chuo Line. Get off at the Musashi Koganei Station. Take a local bus from in front of the station to the museum. It is about a ten minute ride.

The New Japanese Postal Service (Nihon Yuubin)

On a different blog, I wrote an article about the Japanese Postal Service.

Here is an update to the article.

The Japanese Postal Service does more than deliver the mail. They are a bank of some sort.. They provide the service of keeping money in safe deposit while earning a modest interest rate. The intent of the service was to give access to banking "safe deposit" services to rural Japan. The savings is government insured.


The postal service has aided in expanding commerce as "telephone shopping" (mail order) is very popular. It offers a way for business and individuals to exchange cash for goods.

As of October 1, 2007, the Japanese Postal Service has been privatized. There are four companies. The Japan Post Holdings, a holding company for all corporate affiliates. Japan Post Network, the Postal Service. Japan Post Bank, the banking arm. Japan Post Life, Life Insurance Company.

This is not the first time that a Japanese Government run service has been privatized. Japan Railways was privatized in April 1987.

I am of the opinion that from a financial perspective, the privatization will be successful. Like JR, the postal system does have considerable assets. JR's value is in its real estate holdings. The postal system has its depository assets. The decreased government control should provide additional opportunities for the Japan Post to expand their lines of business much like JR has transformed from transportation provider to a diversified corporation that includes real estate, services and even cashless payment services (Suica).

What does this mean for the citizen's in Japan. Well, the effect of privatization has many in rural Japan worried about their access to postal services. Will "unprofitable" routes be cancelled? JR cancelled many services to rural areas of Japan, subsequent to its split because it was not profitable. Will neglected areas be served by smaller companies, local government or non-profits?

What happens to our savings deposits? Before the proliferation of banks, the postal service was the place for the Japanese to deposit their funds in savings accounts. The postal service does still have a large share of the deposits.

Only time will tell.

The Postal Service offers ATM's which can be used by Westerners. What I really want to know is if I can still access yen with my US debit or credit card. The more pressing question is whether the new private post offices will let me take out more than 10,000 yen per transaction.

Check to see if it accepts your card.
http://www.jp-bank.japanpost.jp/en/ias/en_ias_index.html

Chanko Naruyama

After a long day of enjoying the wonders of the sea, urban hiking and a historic adventure into the life of a shogun, we were hungry.......

The pictures summarize our goal for the day.....to have our favorite chanko nabe in Japan.
























We returned to Chanko Naruyama in Asakusabashi again this year to visit with our friend Naruyama Taisho. The food is great but our friend Naruyama ("Taisho") and his staff make this meal truly special. The friendly atmosphere of this restaurant makes us local boys feel right at home. Naruyama Taisho always makes our visits memorable with his great food and hospitality.

Naruyama Taisho is a retired sumotori. He started his restaurant after retirement from the dohyo. His mother runs a more upscale chanko nabe restaurant sharing the name Naruyama.

As we walk under the noren, we are greeted with the fragrant aroma of the chanko nabe. The mix of vegetables, fish and meat make for a truly appetizing air.

Today we ordered a pre-set meal. We ate like.......rikishi.

We started out with a few small plates. This included a sea snail dish, some fish and pickles. We also each had a few plates of the freshest sashimi of the highest quality.

One of my favorites is the Katsuo no Tataki. This is a seared aku dish. Naruyama makes it with just the right combination of sauce (ponzu), garlic and onions. The flavors of his tataki accentuate the taste of the tuna. Most places just drown it. For myself, who enjoys eating aku, this tataki was cooked to perfection. The middle still had the deep red color and the fresh flavor of aku permeated with every bite.

Our next course was of course the chanko nabe. We shared two pots amongst us. One with miso and the other with a Kim Chee soup. Both overflowed with vegetables,pork tofu (and age) and chicken balls. I could not stop eating. The flavorful broth with the mixture of chicken, pork and vegetables was delicious. I had to stop myself to save soup for the one final course.

At Naruyama, you have a choice of either zosui (rice soup) or udon. We always choose udon to have with the broth. The udon in the chanko nabe is something I would take home if I were not travelling. I yearn for this after a night of drinking.

If you are ever in the Asakusabashi area, I would recommend Naruyama highly.

We were so stuffed, we decided to walk one station to Akihabara.

Gochandesu!!!!

Ishi Yaki Imo

Here is a picture of my friend Tim buying Ishi Yaki Imo from a vendor. The vendor is selling sweet potatoes cooked over hot stones. This is a familiar site in the cold autumn to spring months in Japan.

On a cold day, a warm sweet potato hits the spot.

The potato seems sweeter when eaten piping hot. What a treat. Thanks for sharing with us Tim.

These trucks can be seen around in Japan. Near major attractions, in front of the National Museum.

It can also be seen cruising neighborhood. We could here the chant of "Imo, Ishi Yaki Imo" piped over a loud speaker from our hotel room. My friends were wondering what that noise was at night.



BTW, that is not Tim's new Boba Fett jet pack. Rather, it is his backpack with a customized umbrella holder (patent pending, please contact his authorized representatives for distribution info.). No he cannot fly, yet.

Dai Tokugawa Ten at the National Museum

After our trek through the park, we realized that we had a full day. We met the local celebrity (Panda) and saw the local temple and shrine. We decided to cap the day by broadening our horizons at the National Museum.

This turned out to be a special trip to the Museum. The National Museum in Ueno's regular exhibits are spectacular and extensive in itself. The buildings that comprise the National Museum are of marvelous western architecture. Roaming their regular exhibits can last a day or longer as it is easy to get yourself lost in the many treasures.

However, we were fortunate to be able to see the Dai Tokugawa Ten. This is a special exhibit that for the first time brought together the treasures of the Tokugawa family from various private and public collections from around Japan. Awesome, this word does not do this exhibit justice.

We saw the armor worn by the Shogun from various periods. They ranged from silk and leather to western influenced chain mail. The sword collection was spectacular The detail and quality of the swords on display were breathtaking.

Being in the exhibit sent a chill through my body as I realized that what I was seeing were things that were over 500 years old.

We saw a scroll of the ten commandments translated in Japanese. We saw many great Chinese works on scroll.

There was also an impressive display of NOH masks and kimono used by the shogun to entertain guests. These were over 300 years old but preserved to look almost new. The robes were made of silk.

Check out the National Museum website for more details.

The exhibit is from October 10 to December 2, 2007. Note that the museum closes early.

This is a major exhibition. As such, there are literally hundreds of people viewing. The rooms are crowded. We learned that the best time to go is early morning or at lunch. Do not go in the afternoon, we were dodging people.


http://www.tnm.jp/en/guide/index.html

There is also a special website www.daitokugawa.com it is only in Japanese.

Definitely worth seeing It is a once in a lifetime event.

My friends being fans of the Tokugawa shogunate as they were raised watching KIKU's jidaigeki and Japanese movies were left impressed.

I got a discount with my grutto pass.


Sorry, no cameras were allowed in the exibit.

Ueno Part 4

Our next stop in Ueno was the Tokyo branch of the Toshogu Shrine. The shrine was built around 1650 as a shrine for the Tokugawa Shogunate. Honestly, this shrine is not nearly as grand as the Nikko shrine. However, since this is the shrine in edo, it is an important historic monument.

Located along the path to the Toshogu Shrine is the Hiroshima / Nagasaki Peace Memorial home of the eternal flame. This flame has been burning since the atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima. This memorial is relatively new.

The torii gate leading into the shrine area. It is always humorous and at time re-assuring to see vendors near major temples and shrines. Especially, when you are thirsty after doing some major walking. Many times, uphill or stairs. Good time to grab a can of Mitsuya Cider or cold tea.

Ueno Part 3 Fugu You

Ok bad pun. Fugu (blowfish) in Japanese sounds like fuku, which means good fortune. Fugu is often associated with good fortune and this statue is intended to be just that.

Note that there are no fugu that live in these waters. Fugu is a saltwater species.

Fugu You too.

Ueno Part 2 Bentendo

We walked across a bridge to view the Bentendo. The Bentendo is a temple in honor of the goddess Benzaiten. Benzaiten is the goddess of everything that flows. She is the protector of the people and state of Japan.

Ueno Part 1 Shinobazu Pond

After Tokyo Sea Life Park, we ventured to the venerable town of Ueno. Ueno is one train stop away from our favorite pupu smorgasboard, Okachimachi. Home to Ameyoko.

Ueno is an interesting town with a little of everything. It is the home to many of the major public museums. It is also home to the Tokyo branch of the Toshogu temple. There is also a major park. As well as a zoo.

Ueno station is a major rail junction. At one point, the Ueno station was the terminus for the Tohoku Shinkansen.

Our adventure in Ueno started with a hamburger. Seeing all that seafood in captivity made us sympathetic to their cause. As such, we dined on the most Japanese of burgers. The MOS Burger. Anyway, chili burgers for the Japanese palate. The actual motivation was to have a light meal so that we can feast for dinner. (more on the feast later)

After lunch, we walked the grounds of Ueno Koen.

Ueno Koen is the home to the Shinobazu no ike. When viewing the pond, it is hard not to notice the overgrowth of leaves on the pond. My fellow travellers from Hawaii thought that this was giant taro leaves and had ideas of trying to import if back to Hawaii. They had dollar signs in their eyes until I rained on their parade. These giant leaves are lotus leaves.

These leaves are huge. It seems as if you can walk across the pond on these leaves.

Big Fish

I have been asked how big is the ahi swimming in the tank. Well, from most of the videos that I posted, it seems like the fish are not that big.

Well, take a look at these pictures for perspective.

No this is not Mystery Science Theater 3000 on Comedy Central. These are actual people viewing the ahi tank up close.


Thanks to Kurt for the pics.