Path to Himeji

Someone asked me how I prepare for an international trip. Well, it takes months of planning, surf a lot of net (er...Research) and trying to save money by dining and drinking (water) at home.

I can say that most of my days before my trip can be summarized in the video posted above.

I took this video at a pet store along the avenue leading to Himeji Castle.

I stopped to look in the pet store and found this little guy. Somehow we just connected. Perhaps, it was the look on his face as he stared at me from the other side of his mesh wall. The more I thought about it, the more I realized why we connected. We lead the same life. We are both stuck in a small area surrounded by tall walls with one opening to the world. I live most of my life in a apartment, he lives in a cage.

Eating in Japan Expensive???

Rumor has it that traveling in Japan can be expensive.

The rumor is true. However, travel in Japan can be costly if you plan it that way.
Like any metropolis, the lives of tourist are very much different from the lives of the residents.

Yes, a can of soda is more expensive in Japan than it is in the U.S.. And a steak may be the same price but is served as half sized portion.

Check out these site for an idea of how much things cost.
http://www.pricechecktokyo.com/


If you consider yourself a meat and potatoes guy or if you just do not trust eating at an establishment without english menus, then your trip is going to be expensive.


Those that are not adventurous or are just plain lazy will be relegated to the expensive dining options of the hotels. However, a quick trip to a side alley a walk in the business district reveals a much different set of dining options. These are places where the working class and residents dine. Gone are the matching set of forks and knives and you will not be able to find a pepper shaker. You will find a cup filled with wooden chopsticks and a bottle of shoyu. These establishments range from the mom and pop teishokuya which serves complete meals including miso soup, rice and a main dish for under 700 yen. You often get very good and filling meals of tonkatsu or broiled fish. Yes, the plate lunch does exist in some form in Japan.

Lunch is the battleground for customers in the business districts. Eateries compete with lunch specials starting at 500 yen which often are donburis or even teishoku. On a weekend it common to find lines out the door for people looking to get the "deal of the day".

The bento option is alive and well. One marvels at the selection of bento at the convenience store (conbini). Follow this link to see the option of bentos and musubis. Conbini serves really great bentos that are accenutated by the just in time inventory system which assures freshness. The Combini has also ventured into the world of heat and eat meals. A lot better than the burger option.

Seven Eleven
http://www.sej.co.jp/shohin/index.html

Lawson
http://www.lawson.co.jp



If you absolutely have to have a burger, then the value meal costs about a $1.00 more but the sodas are kiddie size.....

Tonki

Tonki is a famous restaurant specializing in tonkatsu.
They are located in Meguro. A visit to this popular establishment in the peak hours means standing line outside the entrance. Often the line is 20 to 30 people deep.

As you enter the restaurant, you notice a rather sterile decor. The first floor consists of a counter that lines around the restaurant surrounding the cooking area. You can sit at the counter and watch the chefs cook.

There is also a line up the stairs to the second floor which includes tables and several zashiki rooms.

I must say that this is the finest tonkatsu that I have had. There are choices in the cuts of pork that you would like to have. Roast and filet. Filet is a leaner cut.

What makes the tonkatsu special??? I think is the light crust of the breading of this cutlet. The breading is not coated on the meat rather it creates a shell around the meet. When cut, it is possible to seperate the meat from the breading. The tonkatsu is not overbearing in grease. Believe it or not the tonkatsu really is not oily and rather light.

There are a few other dishes that are of note. One is the menchi (minced) katsu which is a pork based hamburger deep fried in batter and breading. This is a juicy hamburger rich in flavor.

The kushi katsu is also of note. It is a kabob alternating pork and onions. A really good combination.

The sauce is not special however complement the juicy katsu well. I do not think it is exclusive to the restaurant.

Meals come with rice, ton jiru ( a pork based miso soup) and oshinko (japanese pickles).
also, all you can eat shredded cabbage which complements the katsu really well.

A tonkatsu meal is about 1,200 to 1,800 yen. Not cheap but well worth it.

Spirited Away Shochu

Sho-chu has always been a staple beverage of the Japanese Social scene.

Sho-chu 焼酎 The Kanji characters are translated as burnt liquour. Grain, most commonly rice, potatoe or buckwheat is fermented then distilled. The process and the taste is very similar to vodka. At 25% alcohol content, it can be enjoyed as a much lighter version of vodka. All the taste of vodka without the baggage. It is truly a friendly spirit.

Most sho-chu is brewed in Southern Japan. Okinawa has its own called awamori.

For a decription of shouchu refer to:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shouchu

In the past few years, the shouchu scene has exploded in popularity much like beer and wine in the United States. There has been quite a industry that has blossomed much like microbrew in the US. With the efficient Japanese distribution system, regional sho-chu can be enjoyed anywhere in Japan. This a phoenomenon that should stick. Younger Japanese and women prefer the light alcohol content and the smooth delivery of this spirit over beer (calories) and the venerable whiskey (Old man's drink).

Sho-chu may be served straight. Many drink this spirit like vodka, mixing with grapefruit, on the rocks or straight up.
Some really good mixes that I have had in Japan.
Oolong Tea or green tea.
Sho-chu with a slice of cucumber on the rocks is refreshing.
With a ume.

Iichiko is the most widely distributed label in Japan and in Hawaii. On my 2005 trip to Japan, I ran across a larger bottle than I have seen in Japan. There was a curious label that read shitamachi no Napoleon. The Napoleon of downtown. Napoleon refers to cognac. This is an old version of the bottle and really embodies the true nature of the sho-chu as the common person's alcohol.

On my trip to the Kansai area in 2004, I stumbled across this wonderful shop in the Namba Parks development. The Sho-chu Authority. The shop stocks only sho-chu from across Japan from Okinawa to Hokkaido. There are hundreds of different sho-chu ranging in size and the price. It is amazing to see how many different varieties they stock. From small bottles to big bail kegs. Each has its own review and description much like a wine spectator article.

I took a picture of the storefront of the Sho-chu Authority. There is one in Tokyo Station and Shiodome. This is a must stop by shop.

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/authority/info.html